 The trip round the Calchaquí Valleys, known as “La
Vuelta a los Valles”, is an unforgettable journey through
a region that has witnessed a turbulent pre-inca andcolonial history forged in dramatic surroundings, where the winds and the sun have sculpted its geography. Behind the incredible rock formations of its ravines and multi-coloured hills, there are quiet villages whose adobe and thatch houses take travellers back in time to the distant past. It is a circular circuit that starts either on RN 68 (to Cafayate) or RP 33 (to Cachi).  ChicoanaBefore entering the Calchaquí Valley, and once Salta has dropped behind, the road winds through the Valley of Lerma. There are a series of towns and farms by this route and the main activity of the area is the growing of tobacco. Many of the farm houses accommodate tourists. Chicoana is a small but very traditional village. With its old houses and well-kept square, the village still has an air of the past about it. It is a “gaucho” village that takes pride in keeping its traditions. Rural tourism in traditional farm houses. Many farm and ranch houses are now open to tourists. Their service is personal, familiar and complete, and in many cases, provided by the owners themselves. Horse-riding excursions and similar activities can be done during the day. Still on RP 33, one gets to the Quebrada de Escoipes and then starts the spectacular ascent of the winding “Cuesta del Obispo” until one arrives at Piedra de Molino, a landmark that gives a wonderful panoramic view of the surroundings. At this point one has left the green hills behind and starts to enjoy a completely different landscape where altitude, light, colours and shapes change the appearance of the mountains. The tall and elegant cacti of National Park “Los Cardones” greet travellers. CachiThe first hamlet on RP33 is Payogasta, an ancient settlement of indian origin whose name means “Whitish town”. A few kilometres further down the road, one finds Cachi, the tourist centre of the higher Calchaquí Valley. Some places of interests in the area are the sites of “La Paya” and “Las Pailas”. The distinctive feature of the landscape is the “Cachi Mountain”, known as “Nevado de Cachi” and famous for its eight peaks and for the fertile valley of Cachi Adentro. In Cachi the church and the archaeological museum ae worth a visit. Archaeological Sites. In the Valleys one can find the archaeological remains of the Diaguita people, the first dwellers of the area. This nation of farmers developed important metal and artistic techniques. Vestiges of their work are spread in sites of La Paya, Las Pailas, Los Graneros, Peñas Blancas and Tolombón. In Cachi you can also visit the theme park “Todo Lo Nuestro”, which exhibits the way of life of the region’s first inhabitants. The Archaeological Museum is another must, since it displays an interesting collection of materials and pieces from the different sites of the area. Cultural and Religious Tourism. Each and every town of the Calchaqui valleys has a church opposite the main square that welcomes visitors. These fine constructions with their typical adobe belfries give unique character to the skyline. Locals and gauchos celebrate their patron saints with colourful and noisy fervour, carrying misachicos and taking part in processions. Following route 40, one then arrives at Seclantás, a village with a fine church of the typical Valley style. Following the way to Colte, one can visit expert loom artisans. MolinosIn Molinos, you can visit the church, which is part of a bigger complex that also includes the elegant Governor’s House. Don Nicolás Severo de Isasmendi, the last royalist governor, used to live there. There is also the Criadero Coquena, the first breeding site for endangered vicuñas, where anials live in semi-captivity. Colomé, Tacuil and Humanao are becoming famous for their high vineyards, situated at over 2600 metres above sea level. Tourist can visit these rare wineries and discover the secret of its wines. The weavers’ tradition. Industrious craftmen weave fine pieces in their looms. They use sheep, llama and vicuña wool and make ponchos, blankets and peleros. Others also make pots, leather objects and simbol baskets. Heading north (RN 40) and on the way to Cafayate, visitors go through the breath-taking Quebrada de las Flechas, a curious arrow-like formation in an eerie and almost lunar surface. Then they arrive at Angastaco, Animaná and San Carlos, picturesque villages surrounded by vineyards and poplar trees, where life moves at a slower pace. CafayateWhite dunes welcome tourists to Cafayate, the most important city in the Calchaquí Valleys, famous for its wine production and for the popular folkore festival held there in February, the Serenata. Some attractions in and around Cafayate include San Isidro, Colorado, Yacochuya, horse-riding, trekking and sand-walking. The Artisans’ Market, the Wine and the Archaeological Museums are also worth a visit. An interesting visit to the vineyards and wineries. Winemaking is the most important activity in the Valleys. If you vist the wineries in the area, you can taste original crops like Torrontés. Further information can be found in the Wines & Wineries section. Heading back to Salta, the road goes through, the amazing Quebrada de las Conchas, a series of capricious and intenselycoloured rock formations due to different mineral concentrations in the soil. |
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